London
December 2021
4 Days
I've been to London a number of times over the years, but usually only for 1-2 days at a time either for work or added on to a longer trip. From Chicago, United has 3 daily flights to London so there's often business upgrade space, especially in the offseason. So, when we travel to Europe we often add a couple days in London to visit friends.
In December 2021, Gwen had a last minute work trip to London, so I decided to tag along. Since I maintained US working hours (3pm-11pm UK time) I had most of the day free so this was one of the few times I actually had the opportunity for some tourist activities.
This itinerary is pieced together from all of my visits to London where I've grouped activities based on location and what I would do if I were to do it all in one trip.
Contents
Daily Itinerary
Watch the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace
Walk The Mall to Trafalgar Square
Walk through popular Soho and stop for dim sum in Chinatown
Browse the shops on Carnaby Street
Afternoon Tea at Sketch
Visit the bustling Picadilly Circus
Load up on Tea and Biscuits to take home at Fortnum & Mason
Evening drinks at Lyaness
Michelin-starred Indian food at Tamarind
View Big Ben and tour the Palace of Westminster
Visit Westminster Abbey
Ride to the top of the London Eye
Lunch at Mercato Mayfair
Go to a show in the Theatre District
More Indian food at Dishoom
Get your fill of WWII history at the Churchill War Rooms
Snap a photo for Instagram at Neal's Yard
Try the wide Chinese Biangbiang Noodles at Murger Han, Xi'an BiangBiang Noodles, or Master Wei
Explore worldwide antiquities at the British Museum
Dinner at Rules, the oldest restaurant in London
Start the day with a proper Full English at Terry's Cafe
See the Crown Jewels at Tower of London
Walk across Tower Bridge
For Harry Potter fans - visit Leadenhall Market and some of the movie filming locations
Browse Borough Market and grab a bite
Walk down Brick Lane
Stop for drinks on the 39th floor at SUSHISAMBA
Sunday roast at Hawksmoor
Flights
United Polaris Business ORD-LHR: Voucher from our delayed return from Paris + 80 PlusPoints Upgrade
Hotels
Conrad London St. James: 240,000 Hilton points for 3 nights
▸ Luxury hotel with some of the most comfortable beds I have ever slept in. Large rooms for London and located within walking distance of Westminster and Soho.
The Biltmore: 1 free night certificate
▸ Ultra Luxury hotel across from Grosvenor Square. Massive rooms with amazingly comfortable beds. Good service except for the front desk which just seemed understaffed.
Waldorf London: 80,000 Hilton points for 1 night
▸ While still luxurious, probably one of the most bare bones Waldorfs that exists. Prime location in the Theater District with rooms that are still decently sized, although with minimal frills.
Food (With Beli Ranking)
Tamarind (9.7) - Opened in 1995, Tamarind was the first Indian restaurant in the world to win a Michelin star. One of my favorite restaurants and not overly priced for a Michelin starred restaurant. The crab cakes, lamb chops, and biryani are some of my favorite dishes.
Dishoom (9.7) - The first location opened in 2010 and expanded to 11 locations across the UK by 2025. The atmosphere is always buzzing and the food is incredibly delicious making this a go-to spot for meeting with friends. The black daal and ruby chicken are not to be missed.
Hawksmoor (9.2) - Hawksmoor is a chain of steakhouses opened in 2006 and regularly listed among the top steakhouses in the world. The sunday roast is incredible but make sure to get there before they run out!
Gunpowder (8.3) - Started by a former Tamarind chef, this modern Indian restaurant focuses on sharing plates. Another great option if you are still craving Indian.
Sketch (8.1) - One of the most popular afternoon tea experiences set in an Instagram heaven. The quirky decor and bright colors make for a fun take on the quintessential British tradition.
Terry's Cafe (7.7) - Terry's has been open for business since 1982 and serves breakfast everyday until 3pm. For a Full English, it doesn't get better than this. But this place is tiny, so make sure to book ahead especially for a larger group.
Murger Han (7.3) - Chinese restaurant with 3 locations serving traditional Xi'an street food. The BiangBiang Noodles and Murgers are the most popular and definitely worth a try.
Rules (6.7) - The oldest restaurant in London established in 1798, the red velvet and mahogany truly do make it feel like you are stepping back in time. The menu features traditional London specialties including a ton of different game meats which personally aren't really my thing.
Full Itinerary
Day 1
The location of the Conrad London St. James is great as it's on a bit of a quiet road just next to St. James's Park. You can easily walk through the park to get to Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey and Big Ben are just down the road the other way, and there's an Underground station right across from the hotel.
Gwen was already in London and in meetings for the day. When I arrived in the morning the room wasn't yet ready but they gave me access to the Executive Lounge so I could grab breakfast and then I headed out to wander a bit and try to stay awake.
Lounge at Conrad London St. James - London, United Kingdom 2021
Buckingham Palace
From the hotel, it's just a quick walk through St. James park to get to The Mall, at the end of which is Buckingham Palace. Here you can see the famous Queen's Guard, although in the colder weather they wear grey coats rather than the iconic red.
Buckingham Palace - London, United Kingdom 2021
It just so happened I arrived as the Changing of the Guard was taking place which happens Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays except in June and July when it takes place daily. The entire ceremony lasted from about 11:00 to 11:45 and consisted mainly of the marching band playing various songs (including some modern ones).
It was a fun experience as I had a day to kill, but if you are crunched for time I wouldn't put this as a "can't miss" activity.
Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace - London, United Kingdom 2021
Trafalgar Square
On the far end of The Mall from Buckingham Palace is Trafalgar Square. As it was the beginning of December, there was a Christmas market set up.
Trafalgar Square - London, United Kingdom 2021
Chinatown
Just north of Trafalgar Square is Chinatown and the always bustling Soho area. I stopped in to Wan Chai Corner for some dim sum for lunch. It was good, but nothing spectacular.
Chinatown - London, United Kingdom 2021
Carnaby Street
Carnaby Street is one of the most popular streets in the heart of Soho with many boutique shops and restaurants.
Carnaby Street - London, United Kingdom 2022
On a previous trip to London, we went to Sketch for afternoon tea. In London, you can find afternoon tea everywhere from the hotel lobby to an iconic London bus. I'm far from an afternoon tea expert, but Sketch is frequently recommended as one of the more unique afternoon tea experiences even if it is on the pricier side.
The experience was definitely fun, the space is unique (make sure you use the bathrooms), and I would say it's worth a visit at least once.
Afternoon Tea at Sketch - London, United Kingdom 2018
Picadilly Circus
Picadilly Circus is one of the most popular and busy tourist destinations in London, often drawing comparisons as "the Times Square of London".
Central to all that Soho has to offer both during the day and night, Picadilly Circus is always filled with people, cars, buses, lights, beggars, and street performers.
Piccadilly Circus - London, United Kingdom 2022
Fortnum & Mason
Founded in 1707, Fortnum & Mason is one of the most well known department stores in London. It is almost always completely packed (especially during Christmastime) with people browsing the many displays of colorful teas and biscuits.
It can be a bit overwhelming, but they always have a ton of cashiers so the lines move quickly. If you are looking for gifts to bring home, this is definitely your spot.
Fortnum & Mason - London, United Kingdom 2021
Lyaness
As one of our quarantine activities, we subscribed to Masterclass and of course our first course was the Mixology class taught by Ryan Chetiyawardana (also known as Mr. Lyan).
His bar, Dandelyan was named the best bar in the world in 2017. Unfortunately, Dandelyan closed in 2019, but was replaced by Lyaness. So, we figured we might as well stop in while we were in London!
Lyaness - London, United Kingdom 2021
London is known to have excellent Indian food, so if that's something you like it's definitely worth a try in London.
Tamarind was the first Indian restaurant in London to win a Michelin Star and promotes having a "modern" twist on Indian food. I was fortunate enough to visit in January 2020 and had the crab, chicken tikka, and biryani, all of which were phenomenal.
Tamarind - London, United Kingdom 2020
Day 2
Big Ben
Of course any trip to London warrants a walk across Westminster Bridge to get a view of the most iconic clock in the world. Big Ben had been covered for restoration since 2017, but it was finally uncovered again on our visit in May 2022.
The connected Palace of Westminster is an interesting tour to see the historic building and chambers where Parliament still meets today.
Big Ben - London, United Kingdom 2022
Westminster Abbey
Just next to the Palace of Westminster is the Westminster Abbey, famous as the coronation church for British Kings for nearly 1,000 years.
Westminster Abbey - London, United Kingdom 2020
London Eye
Across the River Thames is the London Eye, the world's tallest cantilevered observation wheel and the most popular paid tourist attraction in the country. I have never been on it, but it is supposed to offer the best panoramic view of London.
London Eye - London, United Kingdom 2024
Mercato Mayfair
After a morning of sightseeing, Mercato Mayfair is a great place to grab a quick bite to eat for lunch. Set in a restored church, the market is filled with many different stalls for food and drinks.
Mercato Mayfair - London, United Kingdom 2020
West End
London's Theatre District, or West End is of course a great place to see some of the most popular plays in the world. We were able to get some last minute tickets to see Harry Potter and the Cursed Child at the Palace Theatre.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child at the Palace Theatre - London, United Kingdom 2021
Dishoom has a handful of locations throughout London famous for its Bombai Irani cafe theme, elevated atmosphere, and delicious food. You can't make a reservation after 5:45pm so it's usually a wait if you want to go for dinner (generally about 1.5 hours in my experience). But the food is worth the wait - make sure to get the black daal and ruby chicken.
Dishoom - London, United Kingdom 2024
Day 3
Churchill War Rooms
The Churchill War Rooms were the secret underground headquarters used during World War II as London was under attack and can now be visited by guests. The museum takes you through the events of WWII as well as Winston Churchill's life both before and after the war. It can take a few hours to get through, but this is definitely a must visit for any history buff.
Churchill War Rooms - London, United Kingdom 2021
Neal's Yard
Neal's Yard is a small courtyard with a few shops and cafes, but a popular Instagram spot due to the colorful buildings surrounding.
Neal's Yard - London, United Kingdom 2022
BiangBiang Noodles
BiangBiang Noodles are very thick hand pulled noodles with many Chinese restaurants across London serving them. I'm not sure why they seem to be very popular in London but I can't think of anywhere else in the world (outside of China) I've seen them. I've tried Murger Han and Xi'an BiangBiang Noodle which were both excellent.
I haven't been, but many people note Master Wei as having the best BiangBiang Noodles in London and Chef Guirong Wei was featured on Chef's Table.
BiangBiang Noodles at Murger Han - London, United Kingdom 2023
British Museum
The British Museum is dedicated to human history and contains many historical pieces from all over the world. Some of the most famous pieces are subject to controversy as to the rightful country's ownership including the Rosetta Stone and the Elgin Marbles which make up a large portion of the original Parthenon Frieze.
In other words, the museum houses all the artifacts the British stole from other countries over the course of history. Entry to the museum is free and definitely worth a stop for anyone interested in the history of cultures around the world.
British Museum - London, United Kingdom 2022
Rules is the oldest restaurant in London, opened in 1798. Stepping in definitely feels like stepping back in time with red velvet, antiques, and hunting trophies everywhere. It's certainly a more formal restaurant, although a jacket is not required.
The menu features many traditional British dishes and lots of game meats. Going in I knew game meats are generally not my favorite but I figured might as well give it a shot. I tried the grouse and while it was fine, it's certainly not something I'd be ordering again.
My general take on this place is you only need to visit if you really want to be able to say that you've eaten at the oldest restaurant in London or you really appreciate these traditional British dishes.
Rules - London, United Kingdom 2024
Day 4
Another must-do for anyone visiting the UK for the first time is a proper Full English Breakfast. As a big fan of breakfast, a full English breakfast is my absolute favorite.
Terry's Cafe is a tiny cafe with tables crammed in every corner and black and white photos lining the walls. It's been here since 1982 so you know they must be doing something right.
Full English at Terry's Cafe - London, United Kingdom 2018
Tower of London
After eating your daily calories in one meal, you can walk it off touring the Tower of London which is more a castle than a tower. There are a number of buildings here where you can learn about the history and see a lot of weapons and armor from the past, but the main attraction is the Crown Jewels.
Tower of London - London, United Kingdom 2021
Tower Bridge
Just outside the Tower of London is the iconic Tower Bridge - not to be confused with London Bridge which is the next bridge over and is not very exciting.
You can go up the towers and across the walkway which has a glass floor where you can see the traffic underneath.
Tower Bridge - London, United Kingdom 2022
Leadenhall Market
Leadenhall Market is a Victorian-era covered market and also a shooting location for the first Harry Potter movie. There are many shops and restaurants, perfect for a short break from sightseeing.
Leadenhall Market - London, United Kingdom 2018
Borough Market
Borough Market is another good option for a lunch break and much more of a "market" than Leadenhall Market. Borough Market is filled with stalls rather than storefronts selling all types of fresh meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables, as well as ready to eat foods.
Borough Market is also the home of the Instagram famous giant paella and the viral chocolate covered strawberries (which are insanely delicious).
Borough Market - London, United Kingdom 2018
Brick Lane
Brick Lane is a vibrant area in Shoreditch known for its many vintage shops, bars, pubs, and restaurants, particularly the many curry restaurants which are well-priced and amazingly delicious.
Brick Lane - London, United Kingdom 2018
SUSHISAMBA
SUSHISAMBA is on the 38th and 39th floors of the Heron Tower and offers views in all directions of London. I can't speak to the food as we just came here for some drinks before dinner, but the drinks were excellent. In the summer, there is outdoor space as well.
SUSHISAMBA - London, United Kingdom 2021
If you're in London on a Sunday, make sure to get Sunday roast. While I personally don't have a lot of comparisons, our local friend pointed us to Hawksmoor and it was definitely the best Sunday roast I've had!
Sunday Roast at Hawksmoor - London, United Kingdom 2021
Overall
While you can certainly hit many of London's main attractions in 3 days, as one of the most global cities in the world there's definitely enough to keep you occupied for much longer. London is one of my favorite cities in the world and every time I return, there's always something new to discover.
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